Tolichowki area in Hyderabad, is a culinary haven that goes beyond the famed Hyderabadi biryani. This vibrant neighborhood boasts a rich tapestry of global flavors, offering everything from Middle Eastern shawarma to Afghani kebabs and African continental delights. Its diverse food scene reflects the area’s cosmopolitan spirit, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts.
Hyderabad has long been a city that welcomes multi-cultural and multi-ethnic demographics, and along with the migrants came their flavours and food plates.
While in search of a ‘unique’ cuisine, different from the usual Hyderabadi Biryani and Mandi, the city of Hyderabad led us to Tolichowki’s Paramount Colony. A vibrant Muslim neighbourhood, Tolichowki enjoys a privileged geographical location, sitting equidistant from both the old and new parts of the city. Its proximity to historical landmarks, such as the 400-year-old Golconda Fort and the Qutub Shahi Tombs, further enhances its cultural significance.
A steady stream of youngsters from the emerging Gachibowli and HITEC City areas to Tolichowki in search of food is a common sight, particularly for its popular Hyderabadi culinary flavours. While these are much appreciated and celebrated, the tiny hamlet of Paramount Colony, located towards Himayat Nagar, hosts a bunch of food outlets serving Yemeni and East African cuisines, including Sudanese, Somali, and Ethiopian dishes.
On a visit to one such restaurant, Tafosha, an African restaurant in Paramount Colony, we noticed that most of its customers were of African descent. Some of the restaurant’s regular patrons said that compared to typical Hyderabadi dishes, the food served at Tafosha better suited their taste buds.
Shakeel, who runs the restaurant, said the goal is “to serve their cuisine just as they would experience it back home.” With more than 75% of his customers being immigrants from Sudan, Somalia, South Africa, Ethiopia, Kenya, and other neighbouring countries, Shakeel is particular about his spice selection. He imports spices directly from South Africa to ensure the flavours remain authentic and balanced. The restaurant also attracts food lovers from various parts of India, residing in Hyderabad, who are curious to explore different cuisines.
Al-Wadi, another regional restaurant that serves Yemeni dishes, is a lifeline for Arabic-speaking Yemenis and Sudanese people, when they crave some authentic Yemeni mandi or fahsa. The dining area is always filled with people from various ethnic backgrounds—Indian, African, Yemeni, and more—all waiting for a spot, regardless of the wait time. Ibswar, an Arabic language expert at Google, is a regular at Al-Wadi. He dines there once every two weeks and is passionate about the food, saying, “Being a Malayali living in Hyderabad for three years, I can’t get enough of this Yemeni food.”
Sociologist Arjun Appadurai has suggested that food can serve as a medium for negotiating cultural identity in a globalised world. “The cuisines of immigrants are often the sites where old and new identities are constructed,” he observed. Food not only enables migrants to express their cultural backgrounds but also allows them to engage with their new surroundings, acting as a bridge between past and present.
The cultural influences behind Hyderabadi dishes
So why is Hyderabad a focal point for this food diversity? Why is there a market for specific regional cuisines? Who are the consumers, and do they represent authentic cultural ties? The answers are complex and deeply rooted in the city’s long history of interaction with traders, enslaved people, and royalty from East Africa and Yemen.
During the reign of the Qutb Shahi kings in the Deccan Sultanate, Hyderabad witnessed significant migration from the ‘Hadhramis’ (people from Hadhramaut in southern Yemen) and ‘Habshis’ (a colloquial term for Ethiopians). Many of these migrants joined the military forces of the kings and Nizams, and settled back in the city after Hyderabad was annexed into the Indian Union.
Today, there are Deccani-speaking Siddis, an African tribe, living in and around Hyderabad, well integrated into the local culture of the ‘hostland’. Additionally, fifth and sixth-generation Hadhramis continue to stay in a region called Barkas, living in the temporally deteriorating memory of their homeland.
Hyderabad has long been a city that welcomes multi-cultural and multi-ethnic demographics, and along with the migrants came their flavours and food plates. A day in the life of a Hyderabadi, or anyone living in Hyderabad, cannot start or end without a sip of Irani chai and Osmania biscuits. But why is ‘Irani’ chai so famous in Hyderabad? The answer lies in the free flow of people across boundaries. Both the Qutb Shahis and the Nizams had roots in the Persian Gulf, and as a result, Hyderabad saw an influx of Persian (or Iranian) immigrants.
In the 19th and 20th centuries, a wave of immigrants from Persia—passing through Karachi and then Mumbai in search of work, before ending up in the then flourishing state of Hyderabad—started serving chai with a unique blend of decoction and day-long boiled, sugary milk.
Similarly, the story behind haleem, a dish especially popular in Hyderabad during Ramadan, follows a comparable trajectory. During this time, the streets of Hyderabad are lined with haleem counters, both large and small. The spice-filled haleem is said to have originated from harees, a Yemeni dish made with minced meat (usually mutton) and wheat. Today, harees is still freshly served in the neighbourhood of Barkas everyday after Fajr (the early morning prayer before sunrise) until 10 am.
Hyderabadi cuisine, with its devoted fan base, reflects a rich history of cross-border interactions and cultural exchanges. Clearly, food has played a crucial role in connecting communities across borders in the city of Hyderabad.
The migration to Paramount colony
Unlike the pre-Independence migration waves, the contemporary flow of Arabic-speaking African immigrants to Hyderabad is largely need-based, driven by the search for healthcare, education, and livelihoods. This phenomenon can be traced back 20 to 25 years, although the exact reasons remain unclear.
Abdul Fathah (name changed), a Somali who came to Hyderabad to treat a relative’s medical condition, found new hope upon his arrival. He discovered that while it may not be exactly like home, he could eat the food, speak his mother tongue, wear his traditional izaar or futah (a lower garment worn by men), and socialise with people from his region.
“When we lost our central government, we faced a lot of crises in our country. We don’t have proper hospitals that respond quickly to our special needs. The greatest reason we came to Hyderabad is to have medication,” said Fathah. “Hyderabad has a cheaper healthcare infrastructure compared to Chennai, Mumbai or Delhi,” he said.
Maritsa Poros, a professor at the City University of New York, has stated that social networks act as a vehicle for migration, which is true in the case of Fathah as well. “We get to know about Hyderabad through our community. If someone from our community goes outside of the country and experiences something good, they share it with us. That’s how we got to know about Hyderabad. And also, the treatments, the apartments, and the expenses—everything is less costly here.”
Paramount colony is also a residential area, with lanes filled with apartments that accommodate African immigrants for a cheaper rent compared to other places in Hyderabad. This is exactly why African and Yemeni “ethnic” food outlets are concentrated in the area. Apart from Al-Wadi and Tafosha, there are several other similar food outlets serving meals to satisfy the taste buds of migrants from the region.
As we ventured into the interiors of the region, we also spotted some makeshift tea points where immigrants gathered, holding cups of tea and engaging in conversations in their mother tongue, Arabic.
Professor Basu from San Jose State University has discovered that ethnic restaurants often cater to the culinary preferences of the specific communities they represent. These establishments are typically located in areas with dense populations of these communities. This phenomenon occurs partly because the host community may overlook or inadequately supply certain goods and services that are in demand among ethnic minority groups.
Moreover, Somali and Sudanese cooks often combine vegetables like okra, kulfa, eggplant, and potatoes with meat, creating hearty, balanced meals. This practice contrasts with some Middle Eastern dishes that may focus more heavily on meat alone.
As patrons indulge in these distinctive dishes, they not only satisfy their appetites but also gain an appreciation for the traditions and stories behind each meal. In a city where diverse cultures intersect, this hidden gem serves as a reminder of the beauty found in culinary diversity, inviting everyone to embrace and celebrate the flavors of Africa right in the heart of Hyderabad.
As Hyderabad emerges as one of the top ten most dynamic cities in the world, according to the Growth Hubs Index by Savills, it continues to showcase its ability to integrate diverse immigrant communities—historically referred to as ‘Ghair Mulkis’ (a term used to describe non-domicile residents) during the Nizam’s era. In this vibrant cultural landscape, both Hyderabadis and newcomers alike can savour the rich array of ethnic cuisines available throughout the city. #hydkhabar
About The Author
Faraaz Mohammed 
Ahssanuddin Haseeb