Step into the vibrant streets of Old Hyderabad, where history mingles with intoxicating aromas. From the rich scent of spices in bustling bazaars to the floral essence of attar shops, each corner tells a story. This journey celebrates the city’s heritage, blending culture, cuisine, and the timeless allure of its fragrances.
As my recent visit to Purana Shehar (Old City) took me on a sensory adventure through its main streets and narrow by-lanes. Each street and corner had rich scents and fragrances that gave a nostalgic vibe.
Nothing brings back memories as strong as scents. It’s when the air has a mix of spices, incense, and flowers; that one can feel the subtle undercurrent of history.
As I approach the famous spice market that’s close to the Begum Bazaar and Osman Gunj area – the sharp and distinct smell of ground masala and dried herbs fills the air.
Known to be the largest market in Hyderabad, the Begum Bazaar was established more than four hundred years ago in the Qutb Shahi era and later thrived during the Nizams’ rule. Osman Gunj is named after the VII Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Khan. These spices are a part of the city’s identity – reflecting its Mughal, Persian, and Deccan heritage.
Hyderabad’s rich history is tied to its spice trade due to its geographic location. This encouraged trade with Europe, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia. It retains its historical ties to the spice trade and the export industry.
The light breeze greets me with aromas that are a mix of Dhaniya (coriander), Zeera (cumin), Dalchini (cinnamon), and Laung (cloves).
I observe the street vendors and shops of this centuries-old spice market proudly displaying their finest products – Guntur mirchi (Red Chilli from Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh), Adrak (ginger), Kachchi Haldi (raw turmeric), Kesar (Zafran or saffron), Lahsan (garlic), Elaichi (cardamom), Chakraphool (star anise), Tej patta (bay leaves), Jaiphal (nutmeg), Methi (Fenugreek)and Saunf (Fennel) seeds.
Many of these spices, herbs, and seeds are often used as seasoning meats and vegetables. Sometimes to garnish dishes or give tadka–tempering to release flavors and aromas.
The city’s iconic dish, Hyderabadi Biryani, cannot be completed without the perfect combination of these spices.
As I pause for a moment to breathe in, a sudden warmth of nostalgia sweeps over me. The scents of these flavorful spices remind me of my childhood days and cozy vacations spent at my grandparents’ home.
This evokes memories of large family gatherings, our homemade meals, and a sense of tradition.
While we kids played around the house, the kitchen was always alive with the mouthwatering aroma of good food. There was a kind of smell that made me feel like something delicious was just about to be served. These Hyderabadi dishes were rich in tradition and taste – they were expertly prepared, lovingly crafted and served by my mother, grandma and aunts. These aromas felt like a hug for the senses, comforting and irresistible.
What specific aromas do you remember most from your grandma’s kitchen?
After the little halt that was like a melody from my past, I continued to walk. As I take a turn and pass through the by-lanes – the air shifts, and the scents change with every step.
Hyderabad’s ancient architecture, with its weathered wooden doors and stone buildings–evokes a sense of timelessness and history. The aged wood often carries a rich, earthy aroma, and a subtle scent of dust and leather.
The stone buildings with their cold, damp exterior give the natural aroma of moss or ivy. These old buildings faintly smell of rain-soaked stone that remind me of a sense of age, endurance, and the passage of time.
My attention is drawn to the building walls – where I notice tiny shops and book stalls against the weathered facades of these grand old structures. Paan Shops, tea stalls, handmade earthen clay pots displayed, leather goods, and raddi (recyclable old paper) shops are lined up. Some are tucked beneath arched doorways in the nooks and corners of the old buildings, with their rustic charm.
As I pass by these little shops each one has its own distinct smell that one might catch a whiff of.
The second-hand bookstands with their well-loved treasures have a thick scent of aged paper, ink, and musty leather. A few feet away the air gives hints of the scent of Paans – saada paan, meetha paan, maghai, and many more varieties. With ingredients such as betel leaf – a heart-shaped leaf from the betel vine, Chuna (slacked lime), Kathaa (a fine brown paste made from the bark of the Kesar tree), grated coconut, betel nut, Gulqand (a sweet preserve made from rose petals) and dried fruits. These churn out a sweet and bitter aromatic flavour.
From a young age, my cousins and I enjoyed watching our elderly relatives prepare paan from a Paandaan – a paan box or container with compartments. Making a Paan is a delicate and precise art that requires careful attention to each ingredient and step. And as the paan is being prepared the scents keep transforming as per the ingredients being added. Once again, the familiar smell of the aromatic paan brings a rush of nostalgia to my mind.
As I continue walking my attention is drawn to this long stretch of the busy road – it has temples, shrines, dargahs, and mosques. The fragrances around sacred places play an important role. They create an atmosphere of peace and reverence. It might be the earthy scent of incense, the sweet aroma of flowers, or the warm fragrances of attars and oils. These smells give a spiritual experience, helping devotees connect with the divine.
Rows of freshly bloomed flowers are set up in the baskets – marigolds, roses, chameli, motiya (jasmine). Their heady yet delicate fragrances linger in the warm air. A spiritual layer is added to the atmosphere, with scents of agarbattis (incense sticks) and Oud – also known as agarwood, from neighboring temples and mosques.
There’s also a mild and soothing floral fragrance that subtly follows me. It is of the Gulab Jal – rose water made from distilled rose petals. It is often used during festivals and special ceremonies.
All these scents together create a sensory tapestry – telling the story of Purana Sheher Hyderabad’s daily life, history, and enduring character.
As I finish my walk and arrive at my destination, I reminisce about the scents that filled the air, rich with the scent of aged wood, flowers, incense, spices, with a hint of earthiness. It’s like a combination of history and vitality.
I can’t help but feel a quiet sense of awe — it defines a city that has witnessed generations blending the past and present. Every corner seems to hold a memory that is accompanied by a mix of aromas and scents. #hydkhabar
About The Author
Ahssanuddin Haseeb 
Aafia Ayman